The Christmas Tree Lights Up Once Again After the Start of the Gaza War
For two years during the conflict in Gaza, all public celebrations marking the holiday season were called off in Bethlehem in the occupied West Bank. This city is believed to be where the faithful hold Jesus was born.
But, following the recent ceasefire, this sacred city determined that now the festivities would return, as represented by the lighting of its traditional, large holiday tree before the ancient Church of the Nativity.
"It's been two difficult years without celebration; no Christmas, no jobs, no work," remarks Bethlehem Mayor Maher Canawati. "We're all living here on tourism and tourism was down to zero."
The mayor accepts that the idea to restart festivities was not without controversy, given the ongoing hardship in Gaza β including for members of the tiny Christian community, who often have relatives to Bethlehem.
"Some may say it's not appropriate while others contend it is fitting," the mayor notes. "However, in my heart, I believed that this was the right thing to take because the Christmas season must never be halted or abandoned. This represents a beacon of hope for us."
A Spark of Celebration Reappears
Locals β both Christians and Muslims β take photographs in front of the tree hung with gold and red ornaments at Manger Square. They are accompanied by a handful of foreign tourists.
Brightly coloured lights now decorate city streets with signs advertising Christmas bazaars and children's parties.
"We're very happy to see the tree, first thing, and to see foreigners to Bethlehem and to have the chance to celebrate Christmas in its authentic spirit," says Bethlehem designer Nadya Hazboun.
"This is where everything began, so this is where we can convey the message to the world about what really Christmas represents. And now, if Christmas is peaceful, then I hope it will deliver a nice message for the whole world."
Economic Hopes and Challenges
Nearby towns of Beit Jala and Beit Sahour also intend to illuminate holiday trees soon. Local hotels β which have remained mostly vacant for the past two years β have an influx in reservations from Palestinian citizens of Israel as well as some foreign visitors.
One tourist from Russia, named Angelica, is making her second pilgrimage to this region. "I think every person should visit at least once during their lifetime," she says.
"I wish many visitors will return soon because it's sad with few tourists. The sole aspect that's good is you don't have lengthy queues β you can come and experience more. When I came before you had to wait in a queue for hours at least."
Currently, the gift shops dotted around Bethlehem have little business, and near the cream-coloured walls of the Nativity Church, which originate from the 4th century, guides are mostly unoccupied. Before the conflict, it was often crammed with visitors.
"This is a city for tourists; absent visitors there is no livelihood," laments one guide Hamza. "We aspire to see individuals coming back like before: from European nations, the Middle Eastern region, America, Latin America and everywhere. We begin with lighting the tree, and we'll wait."
The Persistent Economic Toll
In the past two years, joblessness has soared in Bethlehem. Since the deadly Hamas-led attacks in southern Israel during October 2023 which triggered the conflict, tens of thousands of Palestinian workers from the West Bank have been prevented from entering Israel and its settlements for work.
Meanwhile, government employees have received only partial wages from the Palestinian Authority (PA) β which governs parts of the West Bank. The Authority depends on tax income collected by Israel, which it is currently holding β to the tune of 1.76 billion dollars, according to a UN agency.
Israeli officials state they are retaining the funds because the Authority provides payments to incarcerated Palestinians that encourage violence against Israelis. The authority β which has been under international pressure to enact reforms β claims it has lately modified its welfare system.
An Austere Christmas Season
The bleak economic situation implies that for numerous Christian Palestinians, despite the fact that there are currently public events in addition to religious ceremonies, it will be an austere Christmas.
At the edge of the square, some patrons wait to buy hot balls of falafel from several shops.
"We're preparing for the holiday following one of our most challenging times as Palestinians and as Christians," says one restaurant owner, who runs a restaurant called Afteem, a decades-old family restaurant which has seen its income plummet. He says lately numerous families could not even afford falafel β a cheap, traditional food.
"Christians will try to mark the occasion but according to their circumstances," Mr Salameh anticipates. "Someone who wants to take his kids to a festive event or the theatre or whatever, he doesn't have the money to spend for this celebration."
Prayers for Calm and Recovery
Within the grotto beneath the church, a local woman follows a small Indian tour group, stooping down by a silver star which marks the location where tradition states Jesus was born and igniting a light nearby.
Amid ongoing high tensions throughout the area, Bethlehem residents say they are praying for peace β and wishing for visitors to return to the location which is thought to be Christmas began.